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Jewelry & Gems

Ruby Jewelry

Jewelry & GemsIntroduction
Ruby is the birthstone of July & the anniversary gemstone for the 15th and 40th years of marriage.

Ruby's day is Tuesday, its season summer, and its apostle St. Matthew. The scarlet-colored gem is July's birthstone under the sign of Cancer, is said to accord wearers wisdom, happiness and health, and to bring particularly good luck to gamblers and lovers.

Rubies are more than talismans or good-luck charms, not only historic and exotic but also valuable. Value is a human set of conditions: gems must have rarity, durability and beauty. Great rubies display all three hallmarks. Rubies - especially fine rubies - are rarer than diamonds, emeralds or sapphires. The beauty of their color is without peer. And their durability is often a surprise to new buyers.

On the famous Mohs hardness scale of 1 to 10, everyone knows that a diamond, as the hardest natural substance on earth, rates a 10. Rubies, at Mohs 9, are harder than any other material except diamonds. You may already have noticed that rubies and sapphires are often paired. For good reason. They belong to the same family, corundum, the crystal form of aluminum oxide.

Fine rubies are the most expensive of all gems (with the one exception - very rare colored diamonds, such as red). It is safe to say that, outside of museums, most people never see either large or fine rubies. Most of the material sold today is commercial quality, usually small and heavily included.

If you own rubies, it is good to remember that hardness and susceptibility to breakage are not necessarily related. Even though exceedingly hard, heavily included stones may crack or chip when hit. Let common sense be your guide. Remove jewelry before doing heavy work. Take care of your ruby by treating it gently and by keeping your gems and jewelry clean. Lightly included stones usually go safely into ultrasonic cleaners. Soaking rubies in alcohol (or vodka) overnight loosens stubborn debris, which then can be rinsed and brushed away. Always use a soft brush but no abrasives, not even toothpaste; such abrasives will not hurt rubies but will scratch the softer gold or platinum settings.

Definition
Ruby JewelryRuby Ru.by (noun): A red crystalline variety of the mineral corundum, the Ruby is classified among the most valuable of gemstones. Other crystalline varieties of corundum are called sapphires, exhibiting every other color except light red to dark red, which is reserved for the Ruby. Deriving its color from chromium, Rubies score a 9 out of 10 on the Moh's scale of mineral hardness, surpassed only by the 10 of diamonds. Ruby held in the highest esteem, originates from Burma (Myanmar), which displays a blood-red like fluorescence. Other origins include Sri Lanka, Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia.

Color Facts
The determining factors that give a gemstone its quality and value are made according to the rules of the "4 Cs": Color, Clarity, Cut, and Carat Weight.

The red crystalline variety of the colorless mineral corundum, Ruby derives its vivid coloration from the presence of chromium. The blue sapphire, sister of Ruby, also a crystalline variety of corundum gets its coloration from titanium. Only red corundum may be named Ruby, any other color is called sapphire.

As well as displaying vivid reds, a good quality Ruby will exhibit what is called a 'Pleochroic' effect where the gemstone's red intensifies in relation to a light source. In Ruby's case this is especially noticeable under the ultraviolet rays of direct sunlight that gives the gem an added fluorescence.

Ruby Jewelry Sometimes gem quality Ruby exhibits a star effect known as 'Asterism', this effect is enhanced when a gemstone is cut and polished 'En Cabochon': a dome cut with a flat bottom. The 'Asterism' effect is caused by two or more sets of tiny parallel inclusions, known as 'Rutile' or 'Silk', running the internal length of the gem. These inclusions intersect at differing angles with each other, causing the reflected light to form a star like formation across the gem's face. Madagascar is reputed for its fine quality 'Star Ruby'.

Color Tips
Taste in color is a personal matter, so while the following points are verified facts from the gemstone world they are also up for contention, and in no way are intended to restrict your personal preferences.

The Ruby rules run contrary to the valuation of most other gemstones, the reason: 'It's all in the name'. The term 'Ruby' was derived from the Latin word 'Rubens' meaning 'Red'; therefore, if the gemstone doesn't live up to its name it cannot earn its title as 'The King of Gemstones'.

Before making a purchase considering a Ruby's color is pivotal to the process of evaluation, a Ruby's clarity comes second. Rubies run red with a plethora of passionate nuances running from scarlet, crimson, vermilion, carmine, rose, rouge, blood red, cinnabar, russet to blush.

Some think that when buying a Ruby, as a gem alone or set into jewelry, the darker the color the better the gem: False. If a Ruby is too dark and subdued it's lifeless, and lacks all the qualities for which it is renowned. Go for rich, bright, vivid colors: clear medium-tones and concentrated primary colors are the most favored. The more intense colors will of course command higher prices, so if your budget doesn't allow it look for muted colors, colors between hues, which are still appealing but less expensive.

Ruby Care
To keep your gems sparkling, clean them when dust and fingerprints have dimmed their brilliance. The best way to clean your gemstone jewelry is in a bowl of water with a few drops of ordinary dish detergent. Using an old toothbrush or soft brush, scrub gently behind the stone where dust and soap can collect. Dry your jewelry thoroughly with a soft cloth, and use 'Q tips' to get into the more difficult places.

Ruby Jewelry Although Rubies are well known for their durability you should remember that hardness and susceptibility to breakage are not related. Although a Ruby scores 9 out of 10 on the Moh's scale, second only to diamond, most are included. Some Rubies are heavily included, in the case of 'Star Ruby', making the gem fragile and susceptible to cracking or chipping if hit. However, if you use your common sense, removing it before doing any heavy work, treating it gently and keeping it clean you should have a jewelry piece that will last for generations to come.

Lightly included gemstones usually go safely into ultrasonic cleaners. A home ultrasonic cleaner should be used with extreme caution. It can be used to clean lightly included Ruby, sapphire, diamond, iolite, amethyst, citrine, garnets, chrysoberyl, and unadorned jewelry but it may damage gems like emerald, pink tourmaline, peridot, pearls, coral, lapis lazuli, malachite, turquoise, and any gem that has many inclusions. When in doubt, don't use it, and as always consult a local reputable jeweler before attempting any cleaning yourself.

Soaking a Ruby in vodka overnight will loosen stubborn dirt, which can then be rinsed and brushed away. Always use a soft brush but no abrasives, not even toothpaste. Abrasives such as this will not damage a Ruby, but will scratch the softer silver, gold or platinum settings.

To protect the beauty of your gems and jewelry, make sure you store each piece separately: Gems may not only scratch each other but also the metal components of the jewelry. Avoid creating a tangle of jewelry by wrapping each piece individually, or keeping it in its own compartment. This is especially important when you travel, make sure your jewelry pieces don't jostle each other in one bag.

Gemstones are among the most durable of nature's creations. With a little care, they will be as beautiful for generations to come as they are today.

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